Hot Smoked Salmon with Brown Sugar Brine

Method

1. In a large non-reactive container, whisk the cold water, kosher salt, and brown sugar together until fully dissolved, then stir in the peppercorns, bay leaves, and garlic.
2. Submerge the salmon fillet skin side up in the brine, cover, and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours (overnight is fine, but do not exceed 12 hours or the fish will turn too salty and firm).
3. Remove the salmon from the brine, rinse briefly under cold water, and pat completely dry with paper towels.
4. Place the salmon uncovered on a wire rack set over a baking sheet and refrigerate uncovered for 1 hour; this forms a tacky surface called a pellicle that helps smoke adhere and gives a nice texture.
5. Set up your grill for indirect, low heat: light one side of a charcoal or gas grill and leave the other side unlit, targeting a steady temperature of 200F to 225F on the unlit side.
6. Drain the soaked wood chips and scatter a handful directly onto the hot coals, or place them in a smoker box or foil packet with holes poked in it if using a gas grill.
7. Rub the pellicle-formed salmon lightly with olive oil and press the cracked black pepper onto the top surface.
8. Place the salmon skin side down on the cool, unlit side of the grill, away from direct flame, and close the lid.
9. Maintain the grill temperature between 200F and 225F, adding more soaked wood chips every 30 to 45 minutes to keep a steady thin blue smoke, not thick white smoke.
10. Smoke for 1.5 to 2 hours, until the salmon reaches an internal temperature of 145F measured with an instant-read thermometer in the thickest part; the flesh should flake easily and look opaque with visible white fat beads on the surface.
11. Remove the salmon carefully with a large spatula, since hot-smoked fish is more delicate than grilled fish, and let it rest for 10 minutes before serving warm, or cool completely and refrigerate to serve cold within 3 to 4 days.